Roses, Nightingales, and True Friendship: David Quinby’s People-to-People Journey in Iran

Bay Area Native David Quinby recently returned from a people-to-people journey in Iran, where he was taken under the wing of a highly experienced guide: AltruVistas friend and collaborator Bahman Zenhari. Quinby has traveled the world since age 16 and has visited over 50 countries, but his trip to Iran changed his life. With so much of the US media about Iran fueled by political and economic tensions, misunderstandings, and xenophobia, we wanted to share another point of view, one that’s informed by the concept of “citizen diplomacy.”

David is a small business owner. He is the co-creator of San Francisco bar and music venue The Riptide, and is in the process of launching a second space, Amado’s, at 21st and Valencia.

All of the gorgeous photos below were taken by Bahman and David!

Hi David! What called you to Iran?

I’ve always been incredibly interested in the history of the Persian empire, and also in Zoroastrianism. For a few years in my 20s, I dated a Persian woman who is related to an Iranian governing mullah (an educated and influential religious leader). It was incredible to get her perspective about the traditional culture, the impact of the revolution, and the youth movements that have arisen in current generations, and to hear the inside details she shared of growing up in Tehran. So I’ve wanted to travel there for 25 years.

What were your perceptions of Iran before your trip? How did these shift as a result of your experience?

Given my longstanding interest in the country and its culture, I had a pretty clear idea of the history, and a general idea of what to expect from the people. I also was aware of how many monuments are intact, since there hasn’t really been a war in centuries (except the war with Iraq, which was mainly on the border). Being able to see so much intact, ancient history and art was a huge draw.

What surprised me was how much people love Americans—regardless of foreign policy struggles. I was so overwhelmed by the hospitality! People were so outgoing and were inviting us in everywhere; inviting me into their homes; offering us tea and gifts. The mentality was truly, “You are a guest in my country—I want to share what I have.” People were so happy to see an American come and disregard the propaganda.

I’ve traveled extensively throughout the Middle East: Egypt, Iraq, Lebanon, Syria, Turkey, Cyprus. The Middle East is my favorite place to travel, because it’s exactly the opposite of media-driven misperceptions. My trip to Iran strengthened my own perspective: What I already understood about our common nature as humans and our ability to connect across cultures was happening tenfold, and I was just blown away by the truth of that.

100% life-changing for me was my incredible connection with Bahman. We’re exactly the same age and we’re both small business owners. We have so much in common, and we want to work together. I’m amazed and grateful that my guide is now my future collaborator and truly my friend for life.

Outside of the structure of my guide and tour—just by being there—I also learned more about current progressive movements, including women’s rights. A lot is changing.

What were your favorite experiences there, and what’s important for travelers to see?

My favorite places were Shiraz, Yadz, Isfahan, and Kashan. Tehran—while a much bigger city—is also incredible. In Shiraz, there were rose gardens that just went on forever, and nightingales were singing—just like in Persian religion and poetry. It was mindblowing to experience that and to think, “This is actually reality.”

Zoroastrianism started in Persepolis, but its epicenter moved to Yadz. I loved the “Towers of Silence” there—people used to carry the bodies of the dead up these gigantic mountain temples and allowed the vultures to deflesh the bodies so as to not pollute the earth. The practice stopped 50 years ago out of a recognition of the environmental impact as populations grew, but before that, the custom was intact for thousands of years.

Bahman was able to introduce me to one of the top Zoroastrian Holymen, because the two of them are friends. The priest sold me an incredible old ring, and gave me life advice I’ll always remember: “Good thoughts, good words, good deeds,” the motto of the Zoroastrians.

Kashan is a center for antiques. The bazaar there is one of the oldest in the world. Shopping in there was just unbelievable. And Bahman is just so well-connected; he knows everybody. So that made the experience all the more rich.

How were you transformed by this trip?

Honestly, it changed my life. I’ve been to many countries that are definitely off the beaten track, but Iran offered me so much. There’s such an incredible amount of culture—the music in the restaurants in Shiraz; the mosques with their incredible stained glass windows. Whether you believe in God or the universe or whatever, when you go to a place like that and see what mankind’s been able to build, it gives you hope that there’s much more expansiveness to our consciousness.

Iran offered me calm meditative peace as well as incredible excitement and exhilaration. I kept saying every day, “I can’t believe a place this this actually exists.” It just got more and more mindblowing every day.

What do you think about the idea of “citizen diplomacy“?

I’ve always traveled trying to offer the best face forward as much as I can for Americans. I think citizens from different countries communicating and working together can be the most powerful thing. Communication; exchange of ideas—These are more powerful, in my mind, than any government.

I’m hoping the US and Iran start working together more—talking; opening things open up; creating commercial exchange between the two countries. It was starting to happen under Obama, but now, everything is set back with the Trump sanctions.

Change does come just from people becoming more and more prosperous by working together, from realizing we’re not enemies. We all want to provide for our families, and we all want peace, prosperity, health, and happiness.

Bahman and I have made a pact to work together—even if that’s creating the smallest thing like just doing this interview, letting people know the reality that Iran is just this beautiful peaceful place. I can be a “citizen” diplomat by sending more people over to tour with Bahman. I can let Americans know that Iran is the #5 safest country in the world; comparable to Japan.

If things change politically, Bahman and I would like to open a venue together on the Caspian Sea. It could be a café, a B&B, or a version of the Riptide. While it’s currently illegal to serve alcohol in Iran, we can offer fresh fruit juice blends and book bands to perform.

In the Tehran hills neighborhood—which is just paradise—you’re in the mountains at about 7000 feet. There’s a chairlift that runs along the river, and all these little cafes, restaurants, and shops built alongside the banks. That would be an ideal place too. But if we can get Bahman a visa, we can also collaborate on businesses here in the US.

Anything else you want to add?

Travel with Bahman—he is the greatest. He’s been doing it for 26 years and is certified to tour Americans. He knows every mountain; the history behind every mosque; every palace. He got me into places where a rookie guide wouldn’t have been able to. Other guides would be extremely cautious, but because of Bahman’s experience, he knows exactly where all the rules are; where all the lines are drawn. He’s also dapper, intelligent, and super-well-connected. Request to follow his Instagram —he’s an amazing photographer with lots to share!

Usually Americans need to travel in groups, but because we worked with Malía and Bahman, we were able to have it be just myself, Bahman, and our driver. We were able to cover much more ground than one would with a group. That’s just the way I prefer to travel but there are obviously upsides to group travel as well.

I’m excited and hopeful for the future, and I really, really want to go back.